Home || Engine Removal Motor Installation Battery Box Wiring

 

 

Here's the shelf which will hold all the electrical components. It's 1" thick plastic-- it's actually cut from a bathroom stall door. Don't worry, it's not used... i think. I attached several door hinges to the top. These would attach to the angle iron on the firewall so that the whole shelf can hinge upward.

 
 

At the front of the engine bay, I used L-brackets and a piece of angle iron to create a spot for the shelf to catch. I connected the shelf and adjusted it to open and close easily. There's a little strip of rubber under where the shelf lays to reduce vibration. There's a bolt holding the shelf down to the front catch, which can be seen near the center-front.

 
 

With the shelf installed, I started to lay out the components.

 
 

I reached a (semi)final layout and began "mock wiring" using string. I completely wired the system using the string to make sure the layout would work properly. It also helped to better understand the system.

 
 

The first step to installing the components would be to create the base for the controller. The controller tends to heat up a lot, so it needs some creative cooling. I drilled a large hole in the shelf which would have a fan underneath it. The accuracy of the hole was terrible but really didn't matter much.

 
 

Next, the fan was installed under the hole and an aluminum plate was installed above the hole. There was a 1/2" gap between the plastic shelf and the aluminum. The controller will sit on the aluminum and be cooled by the air flowing under the aluminum plate via the fan.

 
 

The throttle cable and pot box were installed next because their location relied on the length of the throttle cable.

 
 

All other components were installed in place and low-voltage wiring began. Mock wiring was still present and served as a double-check to the final wiring.

 
 

These are the main schematics for the entire system.

 

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