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Home | || | Engine Removal | Motor Installation | Battery Box | Wiring |
Here's the shelf which will hold all the electrical components. It's 1" thick plastic-- it's actually cut from a bathroom stall door. Don't worry, it's not used... i think. I attached several door hinges to the top. These would attach to the angle iron on the firewall so that the whole shelf can hinge upward. |
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At the front of the engine bay, I used L-brackets and a piece of angle iron to create a spot for the shelf to catch. I connected the shelf and adjusted it to open and close easily. There's a little strip of rubber under where the shelf lays to reduce vibration. There's a bolt holding the shelf down to the front catch, which can be seen near the center-front. |
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With the shelf installed, I started to lay out the components. |
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I reached a (semi)final layout and began "mock wiring" using string. I completely wired the system using the string to make sure the layout would work properly. It also helped to better understand the system. |
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The first step to installing the components would be to create the base for the controller. The controller tends to heat up a lot, so it needs some creative cooling. I drilled a large hole in the shelf which would have a fan underneath it. The accuracy of the hole was terrible but really didn't matter much. |
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Next, the fan was installed under the hole and an aluminum plate was installed above the hole. There was a 1/2" gap between the plastic shelf and the aluminum. The controller will sit on the aluminum and be cooled by the air flowing under the aluminum plate via the fan. |
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The throttle cable and pot box were installed next because their location relied on the length of the throttle cable. |
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All other components were installed in place and low-voltage wiring began. Mock wiring was still present and served as a double-check to the final wiring. |
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These are the main schematics for the entire system. |
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